I have found myself thinking about wanting to learn to surf a lot lately. It has been something that has entered my mind every now and then since I was about 15 or 16 when I first ‘discovered’ it as a spectator. Perhaps it has something to do with the upcoming annual Rip Curl Pro tournament at Bells Beach, and the fact I ACTUALLY GET TO GO this year? Or that my uncle made a serious sea-change over a decade ago and can teach me if I ever asked him to? I just have a few issues;
- I am terrified of the ocean and what lurks beneath (spoiler: It’s sharks)
- I am not a strong swimmer….. fairly weak actually
- I am the most unco, odd, overthinking, anatomically-incorrect-for-surfing chick you could find anywhere!
But from what I’ve been told, surfing sounds like my kind of sport. Taking in the best that nature has to offer at the same time as playing in Her playground. Sitting out on your board beyond the breakers watching the world go by and taking in the sun, sky and water…. The tranquillity in the moment of knowing where and who you are and that you belong.
It makes me think of one of my favourite lifetime experiences; being on the deck of a boat on Milford Sound at 6:00 in the morning, up before everyone else. I had the water, the deck, the birds and the incredible mountains all to myself. There was still a little mist hovering on the water and the sun had started to show on some of the peaks of rainforest covered mountains. I had a moment of feeling like I was in King Kong, but that moment of surrealism was taken over by another….. I felt completely connected. I felt the presence of my mother, felt the light of the sun, the cool of the water. I felt the awe of those mountains, their deep green foliage enveloping me, the electricity of environment. I sat on the seat of the deck, drew in a deep breath, and felt at peace.